Medlar: The Ingredient Edit
Part of the rose family, its large hips are best picked after the first frosts which help to soften the fruits, a process called bletting.
Tannins give it a tart bitterness which together with a rather exotic Mediterranean fragrance and a sweetness that develops as it ripens means it makes a perfect partner for the rich flavours of winter game, aromatic cheeses and Christmas brandy cocktails.
The Medlar is one of the last fruits of the orchard and a firm favourite in our restaurants and bars.
FORGOTTEN FRUITS
The medlar, so popular in the late harvests of the middle ages to the end of the nineteenth century, is today largely forgotten in the West, perhaps it is the bletting process that has meant it has fallen from favour with modern sensibilities. Our own garden designer, Bunny Guinness writes in The Daily Telegraph that "In Iran, where they originate, bletted medlars are sold at markets and eaten as a fresh fruit. Here we take bletted to mean slightly rotten but, like a pear, many varieties are hard when picked and take a few days to soften for eating. With the medlar, the outside of the fruit changes from green to form brown patches in November. This is the time to pick, to avoid damage on picking. Put them in a fruit bowl and they will go brown within days. Then you suck out the inside."
Bunny says, 'I chose Medlars for Thyme, as they link the heritage of the farmhouse, the historic orchards and the cookery school & food philosophies at Thyme. They are beautiful trees, with perfect scale together with a long period of interest - flowers, fruit & autumn colour, as well as a beautiful and elegant form.'
This is a beautiful fruit, we preserve them whole, or create delicious membrillo to accompany cheese. This year, our medlar’s made their first appearance in mince pies with medlar mincemeat. The great thing about working so closely with the land is that you don't need to look far for inspiration. On the walk to the vegetable gardens the hedgerows are laden with wild rosehips, combined with the medlar they make the most delicious jelly as well as a syrup for cocktails.
