Although the UK fennel season ends in the early autumn, the crisp, aromatic bulbs continue to adorn the greengrocers’ shelves a little later into autumn, coming in from our own polytunnels or indeed the European mainland’s.  Fennel is one of the most versatile vegetables around.

Puntarella is a member of the chicory family and, out and out, one of my favourite things to eat.  It’s bitter, but pleasantly so, and married with an unctuous, salty anchoïade and some crusty garlicky croutons, this dish is an absolute winner.

This recipe is an ode to late autumn. The Beenleigh Blue can be replaced by another mellow crumbly blue cheese; the radicchio can be replaced by another delicious bitter leaf; the pear and walnut have to stay. They’re integral to the texture and taste of this king of salads.

After the extravagant indulgence of Christmas with its rich roasts, ballsy braises and plenitude of puddings it is time to celebrate the much-neglected contributor to taste that is bitterness.